
Did you know that many Americans in the early 1960’s had never tasted pizza? And that Caffe Moretti in New York City in the 1850’s was America’s first Italian restaurant? And one more fact__before Columbus “discovered” America, Italy had never saw a tomato or even a potato. And get this__ the word spaghetti never even appeared in Italy before 1939. Wasn’t Mussolini in charge back then? Hmm. Well the food and wine reporter at Esquire magazine has set out to set the record straight about the history of Italian food in his new book, How Italian Food Conquered The World. And frankly to moi, an Italian, I was shocked and my hot Italian blood was set to boiling. But in a nice way I think because Mariani’s book is an interesting and enlightening look at what food historian’s consider to be one of the seminal cuisines of the world. However the book does falter a bit. Mariani shows he knows not the historical method. Consider this statement: “There was no Italian food before there was an Italy, that is until King Victor Emmanuel II unified the boot’s city-states, provinces, princedoms, principalities and regions in 1861. Before that, nothing except perhaps the language could properly be termed Italian.” Really? Hmm.. a simplistic distillation of Italian history. I fell over in my chair. A lot of stuff happened between the barbarian invasions of Rome and the reunification of Italy (But that is another story). So right from the start I was wary of Mr. Mariani. Maybe he meant to have said that Italian food had regional differences, much the same that you would find regional differences in the US. But too “boil down” 1000 years of Italian history into a simplistic recipe to fit the turn of a sentence__well that gave me agita (from the Italian agitare to agitate and when applied to the stomach it means lots of acid and indigestion). Italian food is taken very seriously by Italians, so much so that the Universita’ degli Studi di Roma Tor Vergata offers a Master’s degree in the history of Italian Food and Gastronomy. I not so sure its graduates would agree with Mr Mariani’s assertions. Even so I did like this book. Go figure? Why? The historical antidotes that Mariani has compiled are fascinating and his survey of some of today’s trendy Italian restaurants can serve as a guide for those who can afford.




